Leave it to Joynoelle designer Joy Teiken to make burlap pretty. I got a sneak peek of her fall 2010 ready-to-wear collection during  a mini-fashion shoot today. Her signature retro-modern cocktail dresses are more textured than ever in this collection, which is heavy on gold and gray. You’ve got to see them close up to appreciate the way she weaves fabric and layers applications by hand. Her hometown crowd in Minneapolis will get a chance to see the entire fall collection on Sept. 23 at International Market Square. Stay tuned for ticket details. She’ll take it to New York in October.

Here’s a bombshell: A plus size boutique is opening on Grand Avenue in St. Paul. Imagine: being able to shop the charming avenue, filled with independent stores, for fashionable clothes in sizes 14 to 24. It’s a long-time dream for Denise Alden, who is tired of shopping online and bored with Lane Bryant. She’s calling her boutique Bombshell and plans to stock labels like Kiyonna, Igigi, Lucie Lu and many others. She’s staying away from basics – “The big box stores do casual well,” Alder says. “It’s the great dress or skirt; the beautiful fabrications.” Walls are being painted as we speak at 794 Grand, next to Bruegger’s. Hang tight curvy ladies – you’ll be shopping Grand by August.

Exclusive Uptown, Minneapolis boutique Intoto is closing after 21 years (sale details here). The economy is not to blame. Owner Karen Heithoff is 65, has five grandkids in New York  and other interests to pursue on her bucket list. “It was just time,” she says. If you’re not familiar with Intoto, it’s probably because you couldn’t afford it – the store stocked luxury labels like Dries van Noten, Phillip Lim and Paul Smith and never apologized for it. “When we opened, our customer wasn’t shopping in Minneapolis – they would shop when they traveled,” Heithoff said. “We romanced those customers. They really trusted us.” Despite the coming of the Mall of America and the steady ascent of the Galleria, despite more recent high end boutique arrivals like OPM, and our more recent love affair with fast fashion from the likes of H&M and Forever 21, Heithoff believes there is room in the Twin Cities for another designer store like hers. Here are her secrets:

  • Service. “We would do anything for our customers. We really became friends with them.”
  • Have a point of view. “Our customers learned to appreciate our taste. We educated them. If you confuse your customers by switching directions all the time, it’s the kiss of death.”
  • Don’t be ruled by the economy. If you’re a high end store, stick with it, even in tough times. “Of course it’s been challenging in the last 18 months, but if someone wants a $10 t-shirt, they can buy that elsewhere, not from me,” Heitoff said. “In our case, our customers are loyal and they continued shopping with us.” Her one concession, within the lines she stocked, she looked for a broader range of price points.
  • Don’t underestimate the market. “There’s a refined fashion look in Minneapolis that could be worn anywhere. It’s very sharp.”

Zelaz is on the move again. Following stints at Ridgedale and the Wayzata Bay Center, the locally owned tween and teen retailer plans to settle down in Excelsior. The new location will open Thursday, May 20 at 287 Water St. Let’s hope the third spot’s the charm for this mother-daughter owned boutique – one of the very few independents that balances a look trendy enough for tweens but modest enough for their moms. Click here for details on the opening sale.

White House/Black Market has the blues. The women’s clothing chain, which has always stayed true to its black and white palette, is dipping into ocean hues with a new Summer Blue Collection that includes dresses, tops, shoes, belts and jewelry. It’s only natural they’d want to mix it up a bit – black and white are classic and always sharp, but scream for the occasional color shot. Still, it would be a shame to lose the focus that has defined and distinguished them. It’s a slippery slope to coral, and then it’s all over.

IMG_0345 From last spring's suffocation theme to Tuesday evening's chic office separates, chunky knits and asymmetrical coats – what a difference a year has made for Minneapolis designer Laura Fulk. She's got financial backing and is focused on polishing her line for retail sale. She showed great promise, expert craftsmanship and a flair for putting on a solid fashion show. IMG_0347

Lulu A wave of black lycra is about to sweep through the Shops at West End. Lululemon Athletica opens Friday, April 23. Click here for info on opening festivities (forget the yoga – I'm going for the free eyebrow waxing!). Actually, I was at West End last night and already spotted a crew of women shopping Anthropologie in their cropped exercise pants and zip up hoodies. And that was after visiting the new "inspired activewear" boutique Maha! in Wayzata, where owner Krista Fragola called herself the anti-lulu because she offers yoga pants and activewear from lesser known brands you won't see everywhere. Even anti-lulu means more yoga pants. Is studio-to-street dressing a trend, a way of life or a sign of laziness? Weigh in!

Soma Soma Intimates, Chico's answer to Victoria's Secret, will open its first Twin Cities location Wednesday at Rosedale Center. The store offers bras, shape wear, lounge apparel and more with modest, but not matronly styling. Most bras go up to a 40 or 42, DD or DDD. Stop by April 14 to 28 for this grand opening special: Get a free bra with a $50 purchase.

Lucielu The "Lu" of plus size fashion e-tailer b&lu has parted ways with her Twin Cities-based sister, moved to Green Bay and launched her own contemporary plus size line: Lucie Lu. The similarities are undeniable: modern, feminine looks driven by style rather than size. Like b&lu, Lucie Lu is extremely price-conscious: Dresses for $39; jeans for $42. Where b&lu is quite whimsical, Lucie appears to be going for a somewhat more refined look, offering blazers with sheen and cable knit cardigans in addition to smart dresses and chic tops. Sibling rivalry looks to be a boon to the 1X to 5X fashionista.